On this page is start to finish pics of a gear set being removed from a mechanism. this is the most simplest way of changing the gears without too much dismantling of the mechanism or removal of the mech from the jukebox. I have put this up to help those who may look at the mechanism and find the idea of working on it a little daunting.
This method allows the change if carefull with the mechanism in the machine.Ithas been successful on about 12 gear changes.All however have used original aussie gears from wrecked machines and not the replacement reproduced type.
To the right is an old 'Aussie' donor mechanism after a/c motor and coupling removed. a lubricant such as CRC will be required on the shafts to facilitate the shaft removal. Apply at the beginning to get some penetration on old 'dry' mechs like this one.
Re - installing is the reverse of these steps. Just take care and do not force anything if it does not want to go!
An important note on reassembly is to make sure that when the flywheel shaft goes back in that the tapered holes are the right way up ready to knock the pins back in.
The following pics and text should be used as a guide only. I have the luxury of spare mechs on the shelf, you may not so all care should be taken.
When changing out with the mech in the jukebox scan the mechanism into the middle to allow room on both sides.
left - disconnect the clamp arm spring.
Right - pull back the clamp arm out of the way.
Rotate the gears around until the small ends of the tapered pins is seen facing up
I had to grind down a larger drift/pin remover (look at the circled point) as some pins required a very hard hit to loosen and I was finding a pin remover the size of the pin would bend/break.
Some tapered pins require a harder hit than others!
Right pic of gears turned 180 deg showing pins loose and 'up'.
Remove the pins and note their location.
The next step is to remove the 'hidden screw' with a slotted screwdriver just slightly smaller in diameter than the flywheel centre hole. If you don't have one grind one down like I did as a too smaller screwdriver will slip and possibly damage the special screw and make it harder. apply considerable force to ensure the screwdriver does not slip. You will need to 'feel' it!
As the screw unwinds you will notice the flywheel move out to the left.
Left - Note: the little flywheel screw will remain inside the flywheel.
When re- greasing the bearings a little extra grease on this screw will help it retain its position for screwing the flywheel back on.
Remove parts as per pics on right
Right - remove end play adjuster.
Move the flywheel drive retainer and then dislodge the drive unit loose off the slots. With a little work the shaft can now be moved from left to right.
Work the flywheel shaft to the right a little and the flywheel can then be removed.
This is the time for the bearings and bushings in the flywheel to be serviced as I have found many a bearing almost seized and this can affect vibration being transferred to the record.
Left - the use of the right size threaded bolt to tap the shaft right out.
Careful not to damage the threads in the end of the shaft here if using something different.
At this point the gears can now be removed but make sure the washer next to the scan drive gear is collected and installed on reassembly!
All shaft end play adjustments will need to be made on reassembly.
Right - pulling the worm gear up and out.
