Here is my sad looking 58 Seeburg. 200 select - o - matic.
Purchased in 2011 from Coin op warehouse in Maryland USA.
I have already changed the gear set and replaced the capacitors and also fitted a Pickering 03D cart but more on that later.
Here we will look at the cosmetic restoration of which many will interpret differently as some parts will be left original and others will be replaced or refinished depending on the condition of each part.
I dont like restoring a 'good' jukebox that is solid and original however this one has had a hard life and it shows however it is very original and unmolested. I mean that in the sense that it has not been painted 10 times, the wiring is not hacked and the machine has not been pulled apart and put back together with different screws.
Most of the chrome here will polish up ok and the only new parts will likely be glass, grill screen, stripper plate, diffuser, freeplay adaptor and remote adaptor.
Most of the screws/brackets will be replated to give it that new look inside.
Lots of painting required!
I will be using Automotive acrylics that have been colour matched to some of my original parts.
Satin black seems to match seeburgs use of black quite well.
The colour matched paint comes in 500mls, half of which I put into spray cans for ease of painting small parts as I go.
The resto will also require the use of primers, clear coats and hammertone.
Don't forget all the different rubbers and adhesive foams....
Replacing the old ballast is important. if the wires aren't frayed then the resin may have broken down internally like this one.
Mine has both issues so I decided to replace it with a 2 in 1 (original equipment).
Tear down started 2/4/13
The jukebox had the usual broken bottom stainless trim.
I used a piece from a donor machine that was also broken and took it to a tig welder to be joined together as it is paper thin. It was butt welded back together with little spots of weld then ground and polished out.
The plywood sides of the jukebox is de-laminating and the coin door was broken into with a crow bar resulting in severe damage to the ply.
The first 2 layers of the original ply lifted very easily.
The rest of the cabinet was injected with glue (urethane) and clamped each side for a day then turned over to do it again.
Numbers 3764 clearly marked on the inside bottom of the cabinet once it was cleaned.
Keep the old grill to mark the new holes.
2 layers of laminate go back on to build up to the original thickness of the side panels the first one has the edges blacked before the final finish laminate.
The laminate I chose has the same colours as original however the wood grain pattern is much more bold. Its the closest thing available here at this time.
This is how the screws look back from the zinc platers.
Many hours on the buffing wheel, done outside as it throws dust and crap everywhere.
The new and replated parts look great.
Right- Doing the dishes Retro style!
Below- the difference after cleaning and polishing the buttons. I prefer to use originals as I purchased a new set for a HF100R a few years ago and was not impressed with the quality. they would be ok as a last resort.
I had to block sand the white part to remove enough of the yellowed plastic then I polished that out to get it back to white.
Left - The use of caustic and acid to remove paint and rust is essential.
Washed clean with a high pressure washer.
A bit of patience will see the parts back to clean bare metal.
I used paint stripper on the cast parts.
Above - I like to use the Illinois key barrels from victory as that is what Seeburg used and it keeps the original look.
Left and above - I found a really good fitting rubber extrusion to replace the existing cracked up plastic ones as original for the fitting of the glass.
anyone who is interested can contact me as I can do 4mtrs for $20 plus post and pack. this rubber extrusion will work on seeburg 201, 222 / 220 , and most likely KD 200 but I will need to check that as I don't have a KD here to check at the moment
Above pic shows the parts discarded from the mech.
left is the mech after being degreased.
Above - the mech being tested back in the cabinet.
Left- notice the use of the later model tonearm. The reason behind it is the high cost of the 345-03D cart and this conversion also offers the no maintenance magnetic trip switch and it is well balanced for the cart.
So far so good the only issue with fitting it is the original upper counter weight hits the mech cover when fitted.
Notice my first trial of the modified counterweight? I made it to weigh the same as the original one - 31 grams. It now clears the mech cover by 2mm
Below - setting up the tonearm pressure was very easy to get 4.5 grams on both sides as with this conversion you don't need to worry about having enough pull at the end of the record to activate the trip switch.
I could possibly get it lower than 4.5 but I am happy with that for now.
It is really coming back together now.
Photo's below of the remote volume control so I never need to reach behind for the volume and reject!
Above - Earth that ballast transformer!
Below - I chose to leave the back door in the original Seeburg finish.
